Tom Ford / SS 2014

Photo by Courtesy Photo

Burn, baby burn. Tom Ford served up a sizzling color palette full of Mediterranean hues and florals — to go with his soft-edged silhouettes for spring. “There’s lots and lots of color,” said Ford during a small showroom presentation where he acted as master of ceremonies as models glided by in chunky cotton knits and jackets in bougainvillea and flamingo pink; reds the color of ripe tomatoes, and cobalt blue. The two-button sports jacket on show was the O’Connor, which Ford designed for Daniel Craig to wear in the latest James Bond film, and which is one of his best sellers. Outerwear, including biker jackets in leather and suede, came in similarly rich hues of lilac and teal, as did silk brocade dinner jackets. Silk linen trousers, with a single pleat down the front, were abloom with florals while others were purest white to set off the rainbow wave of color. White muscle T-shirts made from Japanese cotton were worn under bright dinner jackets, and neckties, too, came in white or solid colors — “I’ll always be fascinated by the Seventies,” Ford said, referring to the white ties. Shoes were soft, including suede loafers in bright hues — “a flash on the feet,” said Ford – boat shoes with white soles, and hand-embroidered velvet slippers for evening.

Burberry Prorsum / SS 2014

A collection packed with primary colors, sweet pastels and laid-back silhouettes. “I wanted this collection to be sensuous, soulful and playful — something that had character and felt familiar,” said Burberry’s chief creative officer, who worked exclusively this season with cotton, linen, silk and cashmere. The collection was as bright and playful as a kindergarten classroom, with bold red neckties paired with mustard shirts, and knits — some with hoods, others with collars — in shades of creamed corn, bright blue, and lilac. Suits had a youthful vibe — think Dustin Hoffman in “The Graduate” — and were often worn with loose polka dot scarves, or layered with bright, feather-light knits. Bailey played with shirts and knits as outerwear, and sent out a lineup of raincoats, long and short, in brights straight from a child’s paint box.

http://it.burberry.com/store/shows/menswear-ss14/#runway-made-to-order

Pringle Of Scotland / SS 2014

Massimo Nicosia, head of design for men’s and women’s wear at Pringle, took the tartan kilt as his inspiration for this tightly focused, textured collection of knitwear and woven separates. Looks included a wraparound mackintosh-style coat with a kilt buckle, and cotton poplin jackets with delicate horizontal and vertical pleating that mimicked the intersecting lines of a tartan weave. The overall look of the jacket resembled seersucker, but with a more interesting texture. The kilt influences carried over into knitwear, with cotton and silk sweaters made in intarsia tartan patterns, some of them flat, others with a 3-D effect and a spongy feel.

Credits: WWD, Burberry Prorsum, Pringle Of Scotland, Tom Ford