Michael Kors
Michael Kors is synonymous with “effortless,” and his collection definitely delivered this season. His sheer black dresses were beautiful, but my favorite looks were actually all of the coats. From oversized fur to boxy, floor-length wool coats, I’m in love with his outerwear. I want all!!
In a word? Wearable. Nanette Lepore truly knows how to design for the modern woman, and I loved the sexy but sophisticated pieces she offered up this season. Highlights include plunging necklines and rich shades of eggplant.
Marking its first runway show, and first collection by Jason Wu, the Hugo Boss fall-winter 2014 outing pays homage to the brand’s DNA while looking towards the future. A focus on tailored outerwear is a given and Wu delivers that with military inspired coat dresses in neutrals. Elsewhere, daywear takes shape in the form of mid-length dresses with almost patchwork techniques juxtaposing blocky patterns with solid grey or black for a coolly modern effect. The Boss woman gets a little shine with the finale section featuring sequin-embellished skirts paired with airy silks.
Marchesa
Inspired by traditional Scottish Highland dress, the inspiration for Marchesa collection was something outrageously romantic and vivid. Many of the looks were fitted and relied on surface embellishments and pleating for their high-impact effect (everything from floral and crystal embroidery to feathers and metallic accents). Better yet, there was a wide color palette and while the collection was cohesive, it offered enough to please a variety of after-dark tastes with off-the-shoulder pieces, strapless looks, long sleeve dresses, high-neck and single shoulder looks.
Inspired by Ana May Wong’s character in the 1929 film “Piccadilly,” Anna Sui showed a luxurious collection. First, chinoiserie: the color scheme, the prints, the languid lines. Next, the twenties, Art Deco and all, an era whose glamour and geometry Sui has been hot-wired into since she launched her career. Finally, fierceness: the bold conviction that has always driven Sui forward, irrespective of trend and taste in the broader fashion market. All power to her for that.
Proenza Schouler
Proenza Schouler faultlessly delivered on their show notes, giving the fashion crowd volume on volume, pattern on pattern, texture on texture and colour on colour, writes Jessica Michault. With men’s wear-inspired shapes, layers of speckled prints, and flashes of saturated color, Proenza is the epitome of downtown chic.
Ph. by Kim Weston Arnold, Marcus Tondo, Umberto Fratini / Indigitalimages.com, Monica Feudi / Feudiguaineri.com
I love this post: did you attend all the shows in NY? You are a really good fashion observer